This remarkable little spot is barely on the map of California. It clings to the side of the southern Sierras, just the other side of the mountain from Kern River, where we just camped. Separated by less than 15 miles by air from Kern River, it amounted to a 2+ hour drive for us to get there. Because our RV could not negotiate the mountain road shortcut over the pass. So, down the now raging Kern River canyon we drove on a snake curved road of 30 some odd miles until we reached Bakersfield in the hot, broad valley below. It is a stupendous engineering marvel like so many roads through the Sierras and Rockies, testimony to American engineering and ingenuity.
California Hot Springs, the town and the resort, are really one and the same thing. Ghosts of the last century plaintively speak here. It’s palpable. This little hot springs resort is not simply a caricature of its former self, like so many American roadside attractions (Route 66). It’s real, It’s historic, it’s a wonderful little resort...a true working time capsule from the early 20th century. Most of the folks who frequent the resort are actually locals who enjoy the hot springs pool that was created during the 1920’s. There is a small RV park here up on a hill that overlooks the resort that is functional and yet has a feel of being “out there” in nature. No sooner had we arrived and I was maneuvering the RV to park it than somehow I backed over a Kangaroo rat and killed it. Minutes later a massively built raven swooped down and picked up the substantial carcass en toto and promptly flapped itself away with its protein prize. Later that evening we found an unidentified snake of about 4 feet in length sunning itself in the last vestiges of daylight. Wildflowers bloomed incessantly throughout the hills.
The resort itself is a delight. The old wooden floors of the former dance hall that now serves as the headquarters and store/restaurant creak with the voices of 99 years. The old school restaurant serves great home made food and a wonderful breakfast with all the vices. The ice cream is hand-scooped and delightful on a hot, dry summer day. The pool itself is wonderfully warm, not hot, though there is a “hot” tub that is lobster-boiling hot if you prefer. A mountain stream splashes and crashes down the valley and while we visited it was full and running hard. For two days we had a restful time of it. No hiking per se, not a lot of activity, just recuperation and rest in a lovely, old time resort that has defied the hands of time...for a while.